Ballgowns at the V&A

Fashion is a slightly overlooked area- although, fortunately, not at the V&A, who have just re-opened their fashion after a refurbishment.

And very pretty it is too- the vertical space slightly dwarfs the displays but makes it a fine space, with some impressive hanging ceiling domes.

The starting temporary exhibition in this space is Ballgowns- British Glamour from the 1950s. The title, frankly, says it all- it is a selection of ballgowns, and some accessories. The usual suspects are represented- Norman Hartnell, Hardy Amies, Vivienne Westwood, John Galliano (only one, as I suppose he isn’t correct at the moment), Alexander McQueen, the house of Worth, as well as many others.

So this is, at heart, an unabashed study of the aesthetic. There is some context shown as to why these items got made and for whom, and how this has changed- but only little cultural consideration. If I was to criticise, it would be this aspect which is underplayed- how do these items and ideas trickle down to other fashion? Has an awareness of glamorous gowns to sexualise women changed their use? Not much of this is discussed, neither is the technical craft- we know who designed them, and often who for, but not often how.

I found the most telling comment on this (and one of the finest items) is Cindy Beadman’s fairly tale dress- I read this as a savage satire, a ballgown promising a saccharine happy ending.

The other shame is that these items are living textiles- so seeing them on mannequins and not moving on the human body is an inevitable pity- it is partly like reading the score rather than listening to Beethoven (thanks for that one, Mr Barthes).

However, reading these garments as purely aesthetic makes for a focussed exhibition. It is also organised by colour, which neatly sidesteps the chronological/typographical issues- with historical periods mixed on the inside, and contemporary up top on the massive balcony space, displayed somewhat less conventionally.

The other massive regret on this one is Alexander McQueen- he has two items here, and both are awesome. It’s a sad loss, framed by the stone angels of his 2010 collection dress.